Canadian wines continue to impress

Opinion

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 28/06/2018 (2275 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

In hindsight, maybe booking a dentist appointment for mid-July wasn’t the smartest thing I’ve done.

Why? Well, between June 20-24, I swirled, sniffed, swished and spat a few hundred Canadian red, white, pink, bubbly and sweet wines (as well as a few ciders) at WineAlign’s 2018 National Wine Awards of Canada, held this year in Penticton, B.C.

And while blind-tasting my share of the record 1,800-plus wines entered in the competition resulted in a clear picture of the state of Canadian wines today, it also resulted in a couple of tender spots along my gum line and a decided lack of enamel left on my teeth.

Generally speaking, the wines entered in the competition — from B.C., Ontario, Nova Scotia, Quebec and beyond — show that while Canada is a young country when it comes to producing wine (relative to Old World countries such as France, Spain or Italy), we have come a long way and continue to excel in many styles.

Once again, Syrah showed brilliantly at the competition — a reflection of the grape’s ability to adapt to both cooler and warmer climates, which is then reflected in the diversity of flavour profiles shown in the glass. Cooler-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay both showed well from both B.C. and Ontario, as did Riesling made in both dry and off-dry styles. Sparkling wines from across the country were once again strong, while the ultra-sweet icewines continue to shine (and hurt my teeth).

The results of the competition won’t be out until later this summer, but based on my chicken-scratch tasting notes from the awards, here a few highlights that are available in our market:

Tasting wines blind always results in a few David-and-Goliath surprises — less-expensive wines showing better than their far pricier counterparts — and the Sumac Ridge 2017 Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $15.02, Liquor Marts and beyond) is a perfect example. Aromatically, it brings plenty of green-apple notes as well as secondary lemon-zest and herbal components, all while avoiding that over-the-top jalapeno note Sauvignon Blancs can bring. It’s a dry, light-bodied and zippy white that benefits from the addition of a small percentage of the Sémillon grape, which adds modest honey and red-apple flavours as well a slightly richer texture and more complexity than your typical Sauv Blanc — especially for the price. ★★★1/2

Tawse has done well at previous national wine competitions, and the Tawse 2016 “Sketches” Rosé (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — around $20, private wine stores) is quite the delightful pink wine. This rosé is medium pink in colour and aromatically brings pronounced strawberry, raspberry-candy and watermelon notes, as well as a subtle chalky note. There’s the slightest hint of sweetness on the light-plus bodied palate, with ripe red-berry, peach and cotton-candy flavours that will sing in the summer sun when well-chilled. I’m fairly certain this is only available at Banville & Jones. ★★★1/2

The “red-blend” flights are typically dominated by Merlot- or Cabernet-based Bordeaux-style wines which, for a time, brought massive oak and tannins. Winemakers have reined in the harsher, woody components over the years in favour of more balance and brighter expressions of fruit. One iconic Canadian red blend that has always done well is the Osoyoos Larose (Okanagan Valley, B.C. — $45.99, Liquor Marts and beyond). The current 2014 vintage is more than two-thirds Merlot, and aromatically delivers raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry, leafy and spice notes. It’s a full-bodied red that’s beautifully structured, with bright berry and modest bell-pepper notes working well with modest white-pepper notes that come with medium tannins. It’s drinking well now, but could be cellared for three to five years easily. ★★★★1/2

Now, the bad news: many of the wines I tasted (and loved) in the competition aren’t available at Liquor Marts or private wine stores. However, the good news: in Manitoba, we’re legally able to go to a winery website, place an order and have wines shipped directly to our door (providing there’s an adult around to sign for them). It’s an option that still seems to be largely overlooked by (or simply unknown to) Manitobans.

So, more on some of my favourites soon, including wines that aren’t here, but that you should seek out and order.

 

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One sad side-effect of judging at the WineAlign competition (beside my oral health) is that I missed this year’s Flatlander’s Beer Festival. It’s always a venue for trying new or experimental brews, especially from local breweries. That I missed out on sampling beer from Devil May Care Brewing and Kilter Brewing, two new kids on the block, was particularly disappointing. (To be rectified soon.)

I did try the Manitoba Brewers Association “Door Prize” Hefeweizen (Winnipeg — $33.33/mixed 12-pack, Liquor Marts and beer vendors). A collaboration between 10 local breweries, this wheat beer is only found in the Manitoba Brewers Association “Social Pack,” which features one beer from each of the 10 breweries plus two cans of the Door Prize. It’s pale, muted gold and hazy in appearance with a white head, and aromatically brings floral, bread-dough, fresh yeast and lemon-zest notes. There’s a hint of sweetness to this Hefeweizen, which works well with the fresh bread-dough, yeasty and lemon-zest flavours. Good job, gang. ★★★1/2

I also managed to quaff the Torque Brewing Hazy Whaler New England IPA (Winnipeg — $17.18/6x355ml cans, Liquor Marts, beer vendors and brewery). Orange-copper in colour and hazy (obviously) with a white head, this delicious New England-style IPA packs loads of fresh herbal/grassy hops that rise above more modest malty notes. It brings bright hoppy notes on the palate without excessive bitterness, rounder malty and subtle banana-candy flavours. Very well done. ★★★★

uncorked@mts.net Twitter: @bensigurdson